The Ancient Treasures of Lucca
Come walk with me through a small Tuscan city for a few minutes
The Romanesque Cathedral of San Martin is dark, mostly illuminated by small stained glass windows and votive candles. Pause just inside the doorway to allow your eyes to adjust after the dazzle of the Tuscan sun. Organ music echoes off the stone walls and softly fills the nave. Bach, you think. Tiptoe across a floor of marble blocks that were laid in the 12th century. After carrying the weight of a thousand years of penitent pilgrims, these stones are worn as smooth as glass.
We come to this small cathedral to marvel at its architecture, yes, and to view its many important works by Tintoretto, Lippi, Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo, but primarily we come to see a most important relic of The Church, Il Volto Santo – the Holy Face. This large statue of Christ is the oldest intact carved wooden relic in all of Europe. Believers say it is the exact image of the face of Jesus.
According to legend, Il Volto Santo was sculpted by Nicodemus, a contemporary and faithful follower of Jesus. They say the statue was then hidden away during the years of Christian persecution to keep it safe, and was lost for centuries. After seven hundred years, the wooden statue was found in Palestine and subsequently fell into the hands of Saint John I, Bishop of Lucca in the year 782. The statue has been celebrated for over 1,200 years as a symbol of the city of Lucca and as an icon of Christianity.
Il Volto Santo is about eight feet tall. The image has long, loose hair, a mustache, and a beard divided in the middle into two curls. He has a long nose and long bare feet His eyes are open and round. He wears a full length dark blue robe that falls in folds, giving a sense of movement to the figure. The robe is very plain, with only a belt and a line of trim at the hem. The original coloring has been well-conserved: the skin is very dark, nearly black, the lips are red, the hair black. The sculpture is flat, a bas-relief, except for the head, which leans forward, and is three-dimensional when seen in profile. Today, the statue of the Holy Face is displayed on a wooden cross in its own small gated chapel within the cathedral.
Every year a Festival of the Santa Croce (Holy Cross) is held in September. It is the most important event of the year in Lucca, and during this time the holy figure is dressed up!
They clothe him in a gold and blue richly-embroidered over-skirt, a magnificent gold crown, collar, belt, cuffs and shoes. His two flanking angels have gifts to offer him. It is the only time of year when the gates to the chapel are opened, allowing people to pass right in front of the crucifix. During these annual festivities to honor the ancient statue, all the city lights are turned off and the town is lighted only with candles and torches. It is spectacular!
Lucca is actually a large city, but the medieval part is entirely enclosed within high, well-preserved thick stone ramparts. The tops of the walls have wide, tree-shaded, park-like paths with flowers and lawns for strolling or bike riding. The circuit is 2 1/2 miles and offers lovely views over the city. Or you can simply sit on a bench and chat with the friendly people who stroll by. The city walls are additionally surrounded by wide green parks, that also protect the old town from encroaching industry and sprawl.
The only automobiles allowed within the ancient walls are emergency and service vehicles, which makes Lucca’s narrow streets and alleys delightfully quiet for pedestrians. You can wander at leisure for hours. The Lucchesi city fathers thought ahead and planned well to preserve their home.
This small city has the distinction of being the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini, Luigi Boccherini, and Alfredo Catalani, and their music can be heard in many corners of the old town as you stroll. The personal home of Puccini is an inspiration, displaying his old photos, letters, and hand-written scores, plus set and costume designs for his operas. When you visit his home, you will hear a beautiful selection of arias from Turandot, La Boheme, Tosca, Madama Butterfly. Enough to make you weep.
Lucca is quintessential Italy — the Italy we all have in our day-dreamy heads before we ever travel there for the first time. There are certainly places in Italy where you may be disillusioned or disappointed, places that do not necessarily live up to your fantasies, but Lucca is not one of them. It is an absolute charmer. I hope you get there someday. Buon Viaggio!
I fell in love with Lucca a long time ago. It's a magic little place. Wonderful, Sharron. Brings back so many memories!
What a beautiful story. I literally walked with you through this amazing city. You have what we used to call "the bug" in the service (although the purpose of that BUG was quite different... hah). As always, the work of a trully inspired person!